1/100 Garbaldy - Painting Process

Oooook. So I thought it might be helpful to detail my process with the Garbaldy. Hope someone finds it helpful!

First thing is to put down the base rust colour, obviously after priming. I always prime using Tamiya Fine Surface Primer these days, it's just the one I get on with the best. I used a preshade method on this kit, putting down the dark colour first in the crevices, and then painting the lighter colour over the top. This is then followed by a coat of Future Floor Acrylic to protect the paint. Definitely leave this lot at least overnight to cure and harden.

Next is hairspray, any cheap hairspray will do. I find that the cheaper ones are better for this. Spray onto the part and leave to completely dry - should take about 5-10 minutes.

Then is the first colour. All my paints unless otherwise stated are Tamiya by the way, thinned with Isopropyl Alcohol. I like to leave some of the rust colour showing, this helps with chipping and adds variations in the colour. Soak in water as soon as the paint is dry and get ready for some chipping action!

For this kit I avoided salt and just scratched away with a stiff brush and sometimes a bamboo skewer in the more stubborn areas. This is easy to overdo, so I tried to keep wear to the areas I thought would get wear and tear and scratches etc. Some of the base rust colour has chipped away to the primer, but this is easily fixable and nothing to worry about. Leave to dry before going on to the next step.

Next is masking off the areas that will be different colours. I've Chosen Tamiya Sea Blue for the dark, and Tamiya White for the stripes and highlights. I always knew there would be a lot of masking with this kit, and it's actually quite satisfying peeling the tape off after adding the next colours. I used old tape for this as I don't need precision and it was faster because the tape was already in strips. 

I didn't need to cover the whole piece because I'm able to control the paint in a way that it doesn't spray over the unmasked parts. This saves time and materials!

I didn't end up keeping this white spot, I though it looked a bit rubbish in the end (that'll teach me for not following my line art mock up), but I thought I'd show how I did it anyway. Liquid mask is actually really handy for fiddly stuff like this that would take too long to mask with tape.

Next, I just chipped with water and the brush just as I did with the base colour. After that I used another coat of FFA to seal everything in ready for decals.

I applied decals using Microsol, as usual, and also took this opportunity to add hand brushed metal details. I used the metallic paint I had to hand, which happened to be this Citadel Leadbelcher stuff. It's pretty good, though I've been meaning to try out some Vallejo... There's also Citadel Shining Gold for certain parts. I sealed all this in with another FFA coat.

Same as the RX 78-2, I'm using AK Streaking Grime for panel lines. It adds a bit of grime on the paint around the panel lines and sits in the gaps really nicely. Only when it is completely dry do I wipe away with a very small amount of Mineral Spirits on a kitchen towel or cotton bud (Q-tip?).

This is where I fixed the white spot - it really wasn't working for me so I masked off the dark grey and sprayed the base rust again. Then sealed with FFA, painted the base blue, chipped, sealed and panel lined so it matched the rest. Airbrush control baby.

I then applied an overall matte top coat in order to begin the detail work. Matte topcoat is made using FFA and Tamiya Flat Base. Fichtenfoo has a great tutorial on this

Most of the work from here on is hand brushing. The next step is to paint in the Lifecolour Dark Rust over the patches of rust. Not so it completely covers what's there, that would waste all the hairspray chipping I did, but I just wanted to add variation in the colour. Also, the rust paint is very matte which adds more variation in the texture. After that I hand brushed highlights on the chips and rust patches using Citadel acrylics.

Rust streaks are then added using AK Rust Streaks, just like the RX. Apply in the direction of how gravity would affect the streaks on the kit. When it's dry, I used a flat brush dipped in Mineral Spirits to brush down in the direction of the streaks to get that great streaking effect. I always remove a lot of excess Mineral Spirits from the brush, which seems to me to be very wasteful, but if the brush is too heavily loaded with spirits it ruins the effect.

Wait until it dries and you get that lovely streaking effect with lots of nice variation in flatness and tone.

I then painted into the larger patches of rust by mixing the Dark Rust with the next shade up in the paint range, 'Rust'. This is because 'Rust' on its own was too much of a step up in value and I wanted a more subtle transition. This is to bring back any flatness lost whilst streaking and also to add some tonal variation.

The whole thing was looking a bit too orange at that point, so I chose Tamiya Flat Black to post shade with in order to knock back some of the orange and get a bit of contrast in there. This is super thin, probably about 5 parts thinner to 1 part paint. You've got to be so careful that the paint doesn't pool or run, as that can wreck the layers underneath and is hard to fix.

The last thing is a final panel line in the deeper gaps to really bring out those lines. I used thinned down Abteilung Oil paint, which I believe is another MIG/ AK product. As usual, paint into crevices and CAREFULLY wipe away excess with cotton bud.

I used the first part that came out of the tube, which was a mistake as it turned to be super oily and wouldn't flatten back down as the thinner evaporated. I thought I had wrecked the paint job but it has mostly dried and has added a cool oily effect into some of the areas which I think was quite serendipitous!

And here's the final result. 

I hope this was useful to someone, it also helps me to document my process for the future!

The finished kit isn't far off, but I want to make a nice base for this one, so the finished photos won't be materialising any time soon. I'm getting back into Warhammer 40K these days, so that's taking up a lot of my time! Stay tuned guys, lots more work ok the horizon :)

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